Saturday, July 16, 2011

Vogue 1250: Alterations, Muslin & First Impressions (and Giveaway)


So here's my muslin for Vogue 1250. Yeah, it's black so the details aren't as clear but I did lighten the photos so hopefully you can see more than just a black blob.


The jury is out. I think I look rectangular-ish from the front and I'm not. Except my hands are on my hips which kind of hides the curving out there. I also will not make this again in a solid until my tummy is flatter. Prints hide all sorts of evils. ;-) But I will keep this black version and revisit it again after saying goodbye to 20 more lbs. or so. Also, I didn't hem the bottom or the sleeves since this was a muslin, yet I did serge all the interior seams. Go figure.

I did NOT make this straight out of the envelope. Anything but. The alterations were not hard though it was a little cumbersome at times wrestling full dress lengths of tissue. I took pics along the way for the little tutorial below.

If you need to add more width to the lower half of this pattern, before doing anything trace the hip dart onto a scrap paper/tissue and set it aside for later.


Next (and I don't have a real photo of this step so I doctored another), slash the pattern through the hip dart as shown by the red line below. This cut will be perpendicular to the shorten/lengthen lines printed on the pattern. Set aside the back "skirt" piece. If you do not need to made any width adjustments to the lower half, skip this step and leave your pattern intact. Because I needed both booty width additions and an FBA, some of my pics will show front and back separated.


This is the front section, and what you'll be working with for your FBA. I cut the top from the bottom along the shorten/lengthen lines because (1) It's easier to work with a smaller piece and (2) I will need to shorten above the waist anyway. You can keep the front section in one long piece if you prefer and just make the vertical slash for the FBA all the way to the hem.


Next, hold this newly created ""bodice section" (or the whole length if you didn't cut it apart) up to yourself in front of the mirror and mark your bustpoint and then position the sideseam at your side and note how much more width you need so that the pattern Center Front meets your center front. This will be the width you "spread" the tissue during your FBA.

Draw your FBA slash lines as shown in red below, making sure to draw one slash through the shoulder pleat since you will eventually be rotating the bust dart to there.


Slash the pattern, leaving "hinges" at the shoulder and at the tip of the new side dart, as shown below. Secure each section with weights of some sort so they don't move.


Snip the "hinge" at the shoulder so there is no more hinge and rotate the section with the red arrow below so that the side dart closes. This opens the shoulder pleat, which is just what you want.


Fill in the slashes/spreads with tissue, as below.


Reattach the front bottom skirt section to the front bodice section. Because I needed to shorten above the waist, I did it now and just re-attached the 2 sections 1/2" shorter. Fill in the "gap" shown in red below with tissue, all the way to the hem. (If you did not separate the upper and lower sections, your slash in the middle of the pattern will have gone all the way to the hem and you should have filled it in already when you were filling in after your FBA.)


If you do not need to add width to the bottom area, you're done and your pattern will look like this, below.


However, if you DO need extra hip/booty width, you will have slashed your pattern as shown at the beginning. Realign the pieces and slide some tissue underneath so that it extends above the hip dart and a few inches on each side of the vertical slash.(I had previously added 3" in length to the bottom of my pattern, in case you've noticed and are wondering. You can do this at the end of your alterations or when you're cutting.)


This pattern has 1-1/2" of ease at the hips. Figure out how much additional width you need (remember, if you did the FBA above, you already have added onto the front of the pattern piece). Divide that number in half. Then divide that result in half. Add that second result onto the Center Back seam of the skirt area. In the photo above, it's at the very left of this pattern piece, but unfortunately, I forgot to mark this photo.This is a subtlety shaped seam, so shape your addition to match.

Now it's time to use the tracing of the hip dart you set aside earlier. Spread the tissue where you slashed through the hip dart the rest of your required width addition and slide the hip dart tracing into place so that the dart point is in the center of your spread. True the lines at the back waist and at the front sideseam.


Trim away the excess tissue, as show below. (In this pic, you should be able to see where I added tissue at the CB of the skirt section, at the very left.) This section is now done. If you want to add hem length, you can do it now.


Because I shortened the front above the waist and added width to the hips, I needed to make corresponding adjustments to the upper back piece. Below, you can see the tuck I made on the shorten/lengthen line.


Next, I slashed from the shoulder to the bottom, leaving a hinge at the shoulder, and spread the tissue so that the width at the bottom equaled the total amount added to the width of the back half of the skirt section. (Don't calculate any vertical FBA spread from the front here, since the bottom front was already adjusted earlier.) True the curved back waist seamline at the bottom.


And you're done! Below shows all of my alterations marked in red.

Click to Enlarge

And now for the Giveway


This is a repeat from a few months ago because that winner never contacted me. Sorry, but if you snooze, you lose. ;-) It's Kwik Sew 3764, never opened because I ended up with a duplicate back when I was making my fleece "biker" jacket.



Which I have never worn, BTW, because it never got cold again after I made it. It's going to be too big now. Maybe I should put THAT up for a Giveaway??

Anyway, leave a comment below if you want to be entered into the random drawing for the Kwik Sew pattern.

Fine print: For all the Giveaways this week, each entrant can only win once and in the case of duplicates, I'll contact you for your choice and then draw again randomly on what's left. Clear? And if you do enter, please check back next week to see who won because if I don't hear from you within a few days after announcing winners, I'll draw/decide again. I will close comments on this Giveaway on Friday, July 22 2011 and announce the winner on Saturday, July 23, 2011. Again, anyone anywhere can enter this or any Giveaway this week.

58 comments:

  1. I think I might like to be entered into the contest for this one. This is the second one from the lovely SP.com holdup, isn't it?

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  2. Thanks for the pics on the adjustments made to 1250. I hadn't purchased the pattern since it only went up to a size 20 and I am larger than that....I may have to buy it now...have seen so many bloggers in this dress and they all look great....

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  3. The neckline on this dress looks good. and your fitting tutorial is excellent. It is not a very shapely pattern, I don't think the waist area is particularly flattering on many people, even though this is a very popular pattern.
    (Please don't enter me in this giveaway, I just wanted to comment on your tutorial)

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  4. I think the dress will look great in a print. Great tutorial on the pattern. Love that pattern too.

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  5. Debbie, not needing an FBA, I've read the instructions on making them and never understood them. Yours is the first explanation that made perfect sense to me, so kudos!

    I'd really love to have that pattern--I want to make a pleather jacket for winter up here in Hemet. Thanks for the giveaway!

    Gail D.

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  6. I have made the dress too! Surprise, it is so popular. I also had to do an FBA and widen at the hips, which I fudged, thanks for the tutorial on the waist dart, might try drafting it again. I have had my eye on this pattern for awhile now and it is winter here in Australia, would love to make it up.

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  7. I think this dress in a print will be lovely on you. Maybe a belt would alleviate any blockiness you feel is there? I often find a dress looks and moves differently in real life than in a photo, so wear it around a bit and see how you feel.

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  8. Miss Debbie, have I made this dress in a solid? And I own 4 of them! I think you would be much happier with it in a print.

    As for the waistline, I think you either make peace with the shape you have and dress for it, or you end up only wearing big shapeless dresses to hide it. Me, I've made peace with my larger abdomen and celebrate me...getting to make some awesome dresses because I don't limit myself.

    Your tutorial is awesome! The fact that you knew to cut it apart and where to add is so kewl especially since I did a pivot and slide on my original dress and then heavily altered the pattern to include side seams on the subsequent dresses.

    Oh and it's not necessary to add me into the giveaway. I just wanted to speak on the dress and the alteration process.

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  9. awesome tutorial.....thanks for sharing!
    That looks like a nice jacket pattern..
    hugs
    arlene

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  10. I think the dress does look like a solid mass, but black tends to do that in photographs. It probably looks much better in real life. After all that work, I think I might finish it and keep it handy? You never know when you will need to attend a funeral.

    I'd like to be entered into the drawing for the pattern. I've actually been meaning to make something like this out of sweatshirt fleece, like a hoodie only dressier, but I couldn't find a suitable pattern. This would be ideal.

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  11. Oh, yes, please, I would LOVE to have the Kwik Sew jacket pattern! Would begging help?

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  12. I have this pattern in my stash. I know I will need to make alterations before i can sew it up. Thank you for the tutorial. Please enter me in the drawing.

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  13. As with all the giveaways, it seems this one is also popular. What a great community this online sewing comminity is. It would be lovely to win, but if not Im ahead by reading and learning from your blog. Thanks for all that you contribute.

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  14. I love Kwik Sew patterns and this jacket looks good - but what size is it ??

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  15. Janine - All sizes are in the envelope, per usual with KS. :-)

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  16. This is a KS pattern I'd like to try, so please toss my name in the hat. From here, I think the black dress looks very nice and dressy!

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  17. I'm interested in this KS pattern...but also want to comment on your dress. I think you might like the black version with some accessories! It fits and that is so far ahead of what most people are wearing!

    I'm enjoying your sewing journey as the incredible shrinking woman...

    Lynda

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  18. Great tutorial as usual.

    Thanks for the giveaway

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  19. Thanks Debbie - in that case could I enter your giveaway .

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  20. I really how you adapted the Kwik.Sew pattern and would love to have it in my pattern stash.

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  21. Fantastic tutorial and I think the dress looks great on you. I have to say, while it seems to look great on everyone, it's not so much the case on me. Very mediocre, almost boxy fit on me. And it really calls attention to my stomach (whereas it seems to diminish volume on everyone else).

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  22. Oh my gosh! The dress is FANTASTIC!!! May I suggest shortening just a tad I think the proportions are just slightly off, but I'm REALLY, TRULY IMPRESSED with how GOOD REALLY REALLY GOOD this dress lookkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkksssssssssssssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  23. I would like to be in the contest for the jacket pattern.

    Thanks for showing how to do the adjustments on this -- I get intimidated easily! LOL

    Marilyn

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  24. Please add me in the Giveaway!

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  25. I entered the prior giveaway for the KS-3764 pattern and was disappointed not getting it. Thanks for a second chance to win.

    As with your adjustments to KS-3764 making it more like the inspiration jacket, your tutorial of alterations for V-1250 is easily understood. That's how I found your blog a few years ago... trying to understand FBA. Never had problems until I aged. Don't kid yourself, you look great in the black dress. You may be pulling it a little straight by the way you're posing. Remember the big picture, we tend to be more critical of our own tiny details.

    Joy in Palmland

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  26. Thank you for the very informative tutorial. This is going to help me enormously when I get around to making it .

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  27. Marie-Christine3:21 AM, July 17, 2011

    Excellent tutorial, thank you. And thank you for all those great FBA tutorials that I keep pointing people to :-). You're an inspiration. In fact, thanks to you I just got the Palmer&Pletsch dvd, even though I really don't like dvd references, and I feel like a Better Person already.

    That said, I think that dress looks good on you, even though it's not what you're used to style-wise. There's nothing wrong with a stylish rectangle. But what I'm not getting is whether you've done the FBA already. Because it sure needs one in the current statem see those horizontal wrinkles across the bust?. So I'm wondering whether you're remembering that as you lose weight generally while you go down band sizes you need to go up cup sizes? Just seeing the pictures, I'd say you need to adjust your usual BFA to be more than what you usually do, much more.
    (don't enter me for the jacket, my chances of getting to it are about zero..)

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  28. Don't enter me in this one as I might be taking it from someone who would get busy and sew it in this lifetime. Lol! I think a black dress is a treasure-just a canvas waiting for jewelry. You are about the fastest at sewing I have ever seen considering the pattern alterations that you do. Thanks for photographing them for us.mssewcrazy

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  29. Thank You for the tutorial!

    And please add me in the Giveaway
    (I try the second time).

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  30. Thanks so much for posting the photos of 1250 since when I make it I'll need to make a FBA. And count me in for the give-away! I just a jacket like this while browsing RTW this week, and it was very cute :-)

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  31. Well I cut my version out yesterday - before reading your very intelligent alterations. I got distracted and made another dress and now I am going to have to finish this one today. I think you look great in this actually and maybe a little tweak in the skirt would to it. I am already anticipating having to do that in mine.

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  32. I'd love to win the jacket. I was lusting after it with your last give away, and sad that I wasn't chosen. Pick me! Pick me! :)

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  33. I can't decide on this dress. I get the feeling it's like many of mine - I stand still for a photo and looks like a rectangle or A but it doesn't look like that in person because I'm usually moving. I agree a print might work better.

    (Don't enter me in this giveaway - I have no inclination to make a jacket!)

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  34. I love that pattern! I'm picturing myself on my motorcycle, wearing this made up in denim and embellished with something adding bling (which also would reflect light and hopefully help keep me from being run over! LOL). My sewing skills aren't at the level yours are, but hopefully I would end up with a wearable jacket. :)

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  35. I'd love to be entered in the drawing for the KS jacket pattern.

    And thank you for that tutorial. When is your alteration book coming out? You have wonderful abilities to explain the process AND the technical skill to illustrate it too. Kudos, as usual!

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  36. I like your dress, it looks good on you. A print would be nice, too.

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  37. I'm not into masking jackets, but that pattern looks super easy, especially if you use a great fleece or sweatshirt knit. I'd love to win!
    Emilee
    emisuess(at)att(dot)net

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  38. Love that biker jacket pattern! I really want to make that! I have been following your blog, reading your weight loss journey. I have lost 48 pounds, simply because I got really sick (some kind of stomach flu) that lasted for a few months (never did find out what it was). The only reason I think I lost the weight I did was I simply wasn't hungry because I felt nauseated all the time. I am sooo glad I lost this weight! I have more to go. I agree, it feels soo good to wear regular sizes and my feet have gotten smaller too.

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  39. Love your blog, mostly love all the great fabric with the colors. Just what I would buy for myself.

    would love to win this great pattern, have wanted it since I saw your jacket you made.

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  40. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for this helpful FBA for this dress. I have put off making this dress cause I knew I would probably need the FBA. I just could not get my head wrapped around it. I have bookmarked this for future reference.

    I am going to make this up in a print as I don't think I can pull off a solid color!

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  41. Lovely dress Debbie, I especially love the neckline and sleeve-style on this pattern & thanks for the tutorial too - v. enlightening to a beginner like me :)


    P.S. I've got my finger's crossed re: the giveaway LOL!

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  42. I've made 2 of these dresses so far, it's my favorite summer pattern.
    I would love to be entered for the giveaway.

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  43. I'm amazed at how flattering that dress is on all the different figure types. I should bite the bullet and buy it next time there is a Vogue sale. Also, please enter me in your KS drawing, I adore that pattern and keep thinking I should buy it too.

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  44. I really appreciate your tutorial, which was very clear. I'll probably need to make similar alterations when I get to making the Vogue, so it's great to have some guidance. I entered the giveaway for the KS jacket last time but didn't win. Maybe second time's the charm?

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  45. Kwik Sew 3764: I love this pattern! It looks very cool and not too hard to make.

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  46. Anonymous says, "Oh, darn, I forgot to add my actual name,"
    which is

    Toni

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  47. Oh, I like that jacket pattern. I think it would be great with machine embroidery & fabric embellishment.

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  48. When are you writing your pattern alterations book? You are GOOD. As for the jacket pattern, you might like to send it my way! Back to the dress: you looked good, stay with the plain for a bit...........LydiaP.S. If this comes up Anonymous, I am having trouble w/Google

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  49. (I have the KS pattern, so don't include me in the giveaway, thanks)

    Debbie, thank you so much for your detailed alterations!! I made some alterations to my 1250, but will pull it back out to start over!! Your alterations make so much more sense!

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  50. Love the jacket pattern. I can see it made out of a sweat shirt fabric. So cute.
    Please enter me for the drawing.
    Kathi G

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  51. Thank you so much for the tutorial! I am about to make my first FBA (for a friend, I have not had surgery) and I can use all the information I can get.

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  52. Biker jackets are awesome and I need to reread your post at home so I can fully understand it. I am at work and don't have the concentration at the moment. Thanks for the giveaway!
    Michelle

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  53. I really like the muslin on this one. Consider a belt if you think it is to rectangular/blocky. Or make it in a lighter color with a dark color block band at waist level. BTW Love your blog and your willingness to share failures as well as successes.

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  54. Thanks for the tutorial! Really appreciate the information.

    As for the giveaway,I just received some leather for a jacket - this pattern would look really nice in leather ... Thanks for the opportunity.

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  55. Debbie- Please take me out of the drawing for the biker jacket, I went ahead and bought one online. After seeing the adjustments you made on that Vogue (Thanks for that)I bet that dress is going to look great in a print! Anyway, I figured you made adjustments to the biker pattern(which would have been great if I was still that size) but now I am down to a 20!

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  56. No need to enter me in the giveaway, I just wanted to say you write the best FBA and dart rotation tutorials in the world, thank you!

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  57. I think I entered this drawing the first time. LOL. I love that pattern!

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  58. I Love the FBA! When I use my bust size for a pattern everything is too big, but the bust...This helps immensely! Thank you!

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